maj

There's that day, usually about half-way into a vacation (preferably to a tropical island with friends), when you stop thinking of the First Day or the Third Day or Four-Days-Until-I-Go-Home and just think about "today." I seemed to have reached that point, because I'm having a really hard time sorting out which day was which great beach or fantastic meal. I'm sure I have everyone's sympathy...

So I think it was two days ago that we arrive in Luquillo on the Northeast corner of Puerto Rico after a long, but uneventful drive from Ponce through some scenic pasture land and not so scenic traffic. I have to say that, on first glance, Luquillo does not put it's best foot forward. The town, which was founded in 1797 (!) has probably seen more than a few better days in the last 200 years. I've pretty much gotten used to the number of crumbing half-falling-down or half-built structres you find in just about every town, but Luquillo seemed especially forlorn. Maybe it was the contrast of the amazing arch of golden sand, soft waves, swaying palm trees with the rusty bars covering every window and deck. Maybe it was the number of sad looking stray dogs we encountered in our zig-zag path to our hotel. In any case, we got over it quick enough: the Luquillo Sunrise Beach Inn is one of the most inviting hotels I've staid at. The building is nice, clean, well designed small hotel with every room looking out over the beach and a nice open terrace for breakfast and lounging. But it's really the staff that make it gold: handing out beach towels, chairs, snorkel gear, kites, and advice with a smile (not to mention our nagging trouble with the wireless!). And the location really is great for exploring the area.

We originally had planned to spend one day on the oh-so-recommended island of Culebra and one day visiting the Rain Forests of El Yunque, but Andrew managed to get a hold of two wayward Wikitravellers who'd been two steps behind us all week and we planned to have dinner with them. So we spent the morning at the nearby Luquillo Public Beach, a fantastic spot with a great little snack bar offering (cheap!) seafood pastries, sandwiches, and drinks. The beach itself is pristine gold sand and gentle waves and, unusual for PR, lined with shady palm trees. There were also all the basic beach facilities like bathrooms and showers and changing rooms. Apparently the place is packed on weekends, but we lucked out and had a good part of the beach to ourselves.

It was great having lunch right there without having to pack up or get back in the car-- though the line of food stalls lining route 3 just past the entrance to the beach was temping. We staid so long that AJ was fighting sleep like a trooper to play in the waves just a little longer. When we finally got her in her car seat, Evan barely had time to say "I wonder if she'll fall a-s-l-e-e-p?" before she was out cold. She staid out pretty much all afternoon too. Evan and Andrew headed off to investigate the rain forest while I alternated between relaxing on the balcony and channel-flipping in the A/C-cooled room with the volume muted.

AJ woke up a little while before Evan & Andrew returned and we spent some time flying the kite and playing in the surf across from the hotel. Handeling a kite and a toddler a the same time is a lot of work! We headed back to the room and took showers and got ready for the evening. We'd decided to head back to Pinones but this time to a place we knew we could find. The drive was easy and traffic-free, probably because it was a )a weeknight and b)sprinkling. We found Arastide and Ed at the bar and had an excellent time chatting about Wikitravel and travel in general. They've both covered quite a lot of places and had some excellent stories. Definitely our kinda people! Oh, and the food was good to, though I hardly had time to notice what with the chat-chat and chasing the toddler all over the dance floor. She really wore herself out though because around 9 she grabbed my hand and said "All done. Bye. Sleep" and started dragging me towards the car! We said our goodbyes and headed "home".

I hate to say it, but today was pretty much the same! Morning at the public beach, lunch at the excellent snack-shack, and then yet-another great meal. Tonight it was conch and mofungo at once of the informal fish places next to the biolumincent bay north of Fajardo. Andrew and I played with the idea of joining one of the many kayaking groups assembling at the waterfront, but it didn't seem to want to work out and it was starting to sprinkle. Top of the list for next time though!

Now Evan's putting the babe to bed while I blog and feed the local mosquitos (I took a shower and forgot to reapply bug spray!). They didn't seem to find me tasty before, but now I seem to have caught on...

Trying not to think about heading home to the snow, but the trip is certainly starting to feel like it's winding down...