I managed a few hours of fitful sleep on the ferry (which is reassuring as I'll be taking it again on Thursday night) , and my arrival was mostly uneventful... mostly. I was perplexed by the announcements declaring our arrival at the port of Souda, but I assumed that perhaps the port had a name. Needless to say, the port does not have a special monniker: the ferry to Chania doesn't actually GO to Chania; it goes to a different town (Souda). Why this is unexplained to travellers remains a mystery to me, and I was completely unaware of the problem until  had dragged my suitcase halfway through the city anxiously searching for a street name I wasn't going to find, thinking, "This town doesn't look so great..." One too many stores with "souda" written in English on their signs triggered the fear: I was on the wrong island. Just because everyone else disembarked didn't mean I should have. Frantically scrambling back towards the ferry, half of me close to terrified weeping, the other half verging on hysterical laughter, I envisioned a pathetic, desperate attempt to communicate to the ferry guys that I needed to get back on the boat to go to the right port. I can only imagine how that would have played out if I hadn't seen a sign for Chania ("Thank God! I'm on Crete!")   I founda taxi almost immediately after spotting that sign. The driver said that his cab was available, happily helped me heave my bag in the trunk, and promptly picked up another passenger. Either she was wildly gregarious or he knew her, since she hopped in the front seat, and they chattered for the rest of the ride. I sat meekly, mute, in the back seat, hoping the fare wouldn't be outrageous. The loquacious lady was dropped off first, and I arrived at my hotel (booked at a cafe the day before) with a 7 euro fare... not bad. Check in was several hours away, but I hoped the front desk would at least take my bags until then. Instead, they gave me my room, another perfectly lovely little place with a balcony. I went to sleep.\n\u003cdiv\> \u003c/div\>\n\u003cdiv\>When I left the hotel a few hours later, I proceeded towards the old town and spotted a massive yellow building with a tremendous arched doorway that screamed, "MARKET!" I went in, naturally, since i love the markets. The first shop was a bakery with a wide selection of sweets and breads, including that sweetish braided loaf with almonds on top that Yiayia used to make for Mommy. The second shop had a lovely assortment of olives, but in front of those were sizeable slabs of crusty, split-open, salted fish. I hurried past to escape the stench... even olives could wait. The next store featured decoratively packaged bottles of liquids: honey, olive oil, wine and uzo. Heaps of oranges, lemons, vegetables and roasted nuts ornamented the shelves at the next shop... I could go on, but the rest of the stores were variations on these. That Icelandic salted fish, which must be either  extremely popular or priced to go, was at every one of those fish stores, right out in front, though only one of the owners thought to cover his display with netting. If you're ever in Chania, avoid that fish... the flies are extremely fond of it, too...\u003c/div\>\n\u003cdiv\> \u003c/div\>\n\u003cdiv\>The narrow, cobbled streets of Chania's old town conduct wanderers to the harbor, a charming little tourist trap lined with bright restaurants. The old town streets are lined with an amalgamation of typical Greek tourist shops (selling postcards, worry beads, leather goods, hookahs and sponges. Who buys the hookahs? How do you get THAT home?) and surprisingly fashionable clothing stores. The buildings are  rectangular, flat, mostly devoid of ornamentation, but painted in vibrant earth tones. Before the harbor, there is a church with a large  plaza where teenagers congregate at night. Past that is a small stretch of tourist shops, and then straight ahead, the sea, clear and blue. The harbor is sort of U-shaped and not exceedingly large. Most of the restaurants, housed at the bottom of homey family-owned hotels with small balconies, are to the left. To the right are a few more restaurants and what purports to be a Scandinavian night club. At the end of this strip is an old mosque, now used as the tourist office. This mosque's pink bubble roof and flying buttress (kind of) arches leading to a square base give it the appearance of a four legged spider that landed on the building, then birthed four more pink bubble babies (which are on a lower level in front of it, sitting behind the Christian-ified facade that was probably added on later.) Lining the harbor is the Venetian wall and a modern pedway with benches for weary travellers who want to stare at the water. Jutting out into the harbor on the right side is an old lighthouse that is probably quite interesting when it isn't completely sheathed in especially convoluted scaffolding.",1] ); //-->   When I left the hotel a few hours later, I proceeded towards the old town and spotted a massive yellow building with a tremendous arched doorway that screamed, "MARKET!" I went in, naturally, since i love the markets. The first shop was a bakery with a wide selection of sweets and breads, including that sweetish braided loaf with almonds on top that Yiayia used to make for Mommy. The second shop had a lovely assortment of olives, but in front of those were sizeable slabs of crusty, split-open, salted fish. I hurried past to escape the stench... even olives could wait. The next store featured decoratively packaged bottles of liquids: honey, olive oil, wine and uzo. Heaps of oranges, lemons, vegetables and roasted nuts ornamented the shelves at the next shop... I could go on, but the rest of the stores were variations on these. That Icelandic salted fish, which must be either  extremely popular or priced to go, was at every one of those fish stores, right out in front, though only one of the owners thought to cover his display with netting. If you're ever in Chania, avoid that fish... the flies are extremely fond of it, too...   The narrow, cobbled streets of Chania's old town conduct wanderers to the harbor, a charming little tourist trap lined with bright restaurants. The old town streets are lined with an amalgamation of typical Greek tourist shops (selling postcards, worry beads, leather goods, hookahs and sponges. Who buys the hookahs? How do you get THAT home?) and surprisingly fashionable clothing stores. The buildings are  rectangular, flat, mostly devoid of ornamentation, but painted in vibrant earth tones. Before the harbor, there is a church with a large  plaza where teenagers congregate at night. Past that is a small stretch of tourist shops, and then straight ahead, the sea, clear and blue. The harbor is sort of U-shaped and not exceedingly large. Most of the restaurants, housed at the bottom of homey family-owned hotels with small balconies, are to the left. To the right are a few more restaurants and what purports to be a Scandinavian night club. At the end of this strip is an old mosque, now used as the tourist office. This mosque's pink bubble roof and flying buttress (kind of) arches leading to a square base give it the appearance of a four legged spider that landed on the building, then birthed four more pink bubble babies (which are on a lower level in front of it, sitting behind the Christian-ified facade that was probably added on later.) Lining the harbor is the Venetian wall and a modern pedway with benches for weary travellers who want to stare at the water. Jutting out into the harbor on the right side is an old lighthouse that is probably quite interesting when it isn't completely sheathed in especially convoluted scaffolding.\n\u003cdiv\> \u003c/div\>\n\u003cdiv\>Chasing the walkway to the left, I took artsy photographs of the wall, but rather than continuing that way, I went along the path beside the sea. After clambering down onto the rocky shore, I peered into tidal pools at the startled movements of speedy little burgundy crabs and silvery fish that seemed to anticipate my approach.\u003c/div\>\n\u003cdiv\> \u003c/div\>\n\u003cdiv\>When I got hungry, I had a lunch of grilled vegetables in one of the harbor restaurants, then I explored the right side of the harbor. I passed a dock filled with fading fishing boats, sleek sailboats and leathery-faced Pappous with fishing poles, the latter always seated on wooden chairs, catching nothing. After passing hidden seafood restaurants, I found a way to climb atop the wall, which is more like a fortress on that side. Grass and flowers have flourished, so that the top of the wall is like a lawn with a remarkably beautiful view. Flowers are blooming everywhere in Crete. If there is a crevice in a wall, a poppy or a daisy or a dandelion or some random purple flower grows from it.\u003c/div\>\n\u003cdiv\> \u003c/div\>\n\u003cdiv\>I found my way back to the hotel, just to make sure that I could, and while I was there, I asked where the bus station was located. Although Chania is nice, I wanted to see more of Crete. On the way to the bus station, I stopped in a travel agency to inquire about excursions to the Samaria Gorge, one of the reasons I chose to visit Crete. It is closed until Friday... when I leave. I continued on to the bus station.\u003c/div\>\n\u003cdiv\> \u003c/div\>\n\u003cdiv\>I have no idea how to describe the bus station because I have NO idea what was going on in that place. I expected noise, bums, a schedule that I could read, ticket sales windows and an information desk. The only things this bus station had in common with other bus stations were the busses themselves, and vociferous people of indeterminate cleanliness. What I THINK was the schedule was entirely in Greek. What I thought was a ticket agent was a guy who yelled at people who spoke to him and sent them inside to a long line of backpackers. Nobody was speaking English, and I couldn't find an information desk. After ten minutes of chaos (I stood around trying to process it all), I decided it would be less confusing and stressful to rent a car, even though the vicious drivers and obvious lack of traffic laws terrified me.",1] ); //-->   Chasing the walkway to the left, I took artsy photographs of the wall, but rather than continuing that way, I went along the path beside the sea. After clambering down onto the rocky shore, I peered into tidal pools at the startled movements of speedy little burgundy crabs and silvery fish that seemed to anticipate my approach.   When I got hungry, I had a lunch of grilled vegetables in one of the harbor restaurants, then I explored the right side of the harbor. I passed a dock filled with fading fishing boats, sleek sailboats and leathery-faced Pappous with fishing poles, the latter always seated on wooden chairs, catching nothing. After passing hidden seafood restaurants, I found a way to climb atop the wall, which is more like a fortress on that side. Grass and flowers have flourished, so that the top of the wall is like a lawn with a remarkably beautiful view. Flowers are blooming everywhere in Crete. If there is a crevice in a wall, a poppy or a daisy or a dandelion or some random purple flower grows from it.   I found my way back to the hotel, just to make sure that I could, and while I was there, I asked where the bus station was located. Although Chania is nice, I wanted to see more of Crete. On the way to the bus station, I stopped in a travel agency to inquire about excursions to the Samaria Gorge, one of the reasons I chose to visit Crete. It is closed until Friday... when I leave. I continued on to the bus station.   I have no idea how to describe the bus station because I have NO idea what was going on in that place. I expected noise, bums, a schedule that I could read, ticket sales windows and an information desk. The only things this bus station had in common with other bus stations were the busses themselves, and vociferous people of indeterminate cleanliness. What I THINK was the schedule was entirely in Greek. What I thought was a ticket agent was a guy who yelled at people who spoke to him and sent them inside to a long line of backpackers. Nobody was speaking English, and I couldn't find an information desk. After ten minutes of chaos (I stood around trying to process it all), I decided it would be less confusing and stressful to rent a car, even though the vicious drivers and obvious lack of traffic laws terrified me.\n\u003cdiv\> \u003c/div\>\n\u003cdiv\>Decision made, I returned to the city center, meandered through the streets until dinner, then selected another enticing cafe on the harbor. I know these cute places probably do not feature the most delectable menus in the city, but I'm a vegetarian, so there's always a good chance I'll be eating a salad. I chose style over substance as usual...\u003c/div\>\n\u003cdiv\> \u003c/div\>\n\u003cdiv\>---\u003cbr\>I get up every morning determined both to change the world and to have one hell of a good time. Sometimes this makes planning the day difficult.\u003cbr\>--E.B. White\u003c/div\>\n\u003cdiv\> \u003c/div\> \u003c/div\>\u003c/div\>\u003c/div\>\n",0] ); D(["ce"]); //-->   Decision made, I returned to the city center, meandered through the streets until dinner, then selected another enticing cafe on the harbor. I know these cute places probably do not feature the most delectable menus in the city, but I'm a vegetarian, so there's always a good chance I'll be eating a salad. I chose style over substance as usual...